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Rabbits are fluffy bundles of fun and make great pets for many people as they don't take up very much room and don't need to be taken for a walk around the park every day. They love company and can become very friendly if treated properly.
Rabbits do however, require daily attention and some can live for up to 10 years so they are a long term commitment. Rabbits are not cheap pets as many new owners will soon come to realise. There are setup costs, food bills, and veterinary bills to consider, and as rabbits can live up to ten years owning a rabbit can be a long term financial commitment. Make sure you have what it takes to look after a rabbit. Guinea Pigs are a good alternative as they are easier to manage and do not live as long.
Choosing a Rabbit
There are a variety of rabbits to choose from varying in size, shape, colour, temperament and so on. But when choosing which rabbit to buy, always buy your rabbit from a reliable source and if possible check that the mother is in good health. Baby rabbits should stay with their mother for the first nine weeks of their lives so don't take a baby that is any younger.
The most common breeds kept as pets in the UK are the Dutch, Dwarf Lop and the Netherland Dwarf.
Avoid any rabbits that have diarrhoea or a runny nose as these are signs of sickness. If you do not believe the Rabbit is in good health, look to another source to find your new pet.
Consider getting your rabbit from a re-homing centre as they have many loving bunnies that desperately need a new home. When getting your rabbit, know that a girl rabbit is called a 'Doe' and a boy a 'Buck'.
Indoor rabbits
More and more rabbit owners are choosing to keep their rabbits indoors and keep them as house pets. The main reasons for this are to have your beloved rabbit around your home with you all day, to play and interact with more often, just as you would a cat or dog.
Indoor rabbits love to run around the house and hide under furniture. But be mindful, keeping your rabbit indoors requires training, rabbit proofing your home, and more time and dedication than keeping your rabbit outdoors. That wooden chair you love might have just become your indoor rabbits new favourite chew toy!
You will need to train your rabbit, as you would a puppy, to use a litter tray, to not venture into certain areas of the house, and not to chew your slippers!
Rabbit proofing your home is essential, you will need to make sure your rabbit can not nibble on electric wires, eat any poisonous house hold plants and so on.
Out Door Rabbits
In the wild outdoors rabbits live in burrows and spend most of time foraging for food. Living in a hutch allows your rabbit to live outside and receive plenty of sunshine and fresh air every day.
A rabbit needs space to stretch and stand up on its hind legs, and a place to run and receive exercise. Rabbits that do not get much time out of their cage to run, hop and stretch may develop health problems, so daily time out of the cage is essential. Out door rabbits will get lonely if they do not receive regular attention and mental stimulation. A bored rabbit is an unhappy rabbit. Keep your outdoor hutch in a sheltered area of the garden, to help keep the bad weather out.
Rabbits hate the cold. If you keep your Rabbit out doors, it is worth considering bringing them indoors over the winter months, or moving their hutch into a garage or shed (as long as there are no care fumes). If this is not an option, you can add a snuggle heat safe pad to the rabbits sleeping area for extra warmth and protection from the cold.
Choosing the right size rabbit hutch
Rabbit Breeders and Pet shops rarely have hutches that are actually big enough for rabbits. A 3ft hutch is not big enough for a rabbit regardless of breed! If a breeder or pet shop tells you otherwise then we would advise that you get your pet from somewhere else as the seller really does not care about your potential pet.
It is vital to get a rabbit hutch that is big enough for your rabbit. A hutch can never be too big. When a rabbit is really relaxed it will stretch out its front legs forward and it’s back legs behind and thus becomes quite long. So your hutch needs to be big enough for your rabbit to stretch out in, and high enough so the rabbits ears do not touch the roof when on its hind legs. If keeping two rabbits together, the hutch will need to be bigger.
The hutch must be weather proof, preferably off the ground to protect your pet from bad weather conditions and predators. Have a separate sleeping area to keep the rabbit warm at night, and so that it has somewhere to take shade from the sun. Keep the hutch in a sheltered area to keep out bad weather, use extra water proofing if needed, rabbits hate to get wet.
Rabbits may choose to nibble on their hutch rather than the chewing blocks you have provided. Anti-chew repellent can be sprayed onto your hutch to prevent the hutch from being nibbled away.
The hutch should be tidied daily and thoroughly cleaned weekly with the bedding changed.
Run Rabbit, Run
Having a run for your rabbit is great exercise for your pet. A hutch with run access gives your rabbit more freedom, and expands its living space. Being attached to the hutch gives the rabbit the ability to run back inside if hot/cold or frightened. Free standing hutches without a separate compartment need more supervision, as rabbits are easily frightened and like to have a space to retreat to. Consider a run with a special compartment so your rabbit has somewhere secure to go to if needed.
Keeping more than one Rabbit
Rabbits are sociable animals and enjoy company, whether this company comes from you or another rabbit it does not matter, as long as they get plenty of it. If you wish to keep one rabbit you the owner have a great responsibility to give you rabbit all the time and attention it needs.
If you are unable to give one rabbit lots of attention for instance if you are out all day at work or at school, you will be leaving your rabbit for long periods of time, in circumstances such as this it is much kinder to keep two or more rabbits so they have company. Two rabbits will keep each company and prevent boredom, stress and depression.
Owners who keep their rabbits indoors often keep one rabbit, as they have plenty of human companionship, so won’t get lonely or depressed. Owners keeping their rabbit outdoors often prefer to buy two, as the rabbits spend more time without human company.
The best combinations are a male (castrated) and female (spayed) bonded pair. Or if choosing to keep same sex pairs it best to chose litter mates i.e sisters or mother and daughter. Two males may start to fight as they become older. In both cases you will need to ensure the rabbits are spayed/neutered as this will help calm their aggressive nature and make them more docile to you, and each other.
Introductions
When introducing a second rabbit you will need to have time and patience. Sometimes boding is instant, sometimes bonding can take weeks! In most cases it is not love at first sight, expect some bunny boxing. The best introductions are between neutered males and females. Introduce them in a neutral place, somewhere your original rabbit has never been (such as a shed), this way territory issues should not be a factor. Let them inspect each other, be prepared for a scuffle. If they do fight, separate them immediately. Then try the process over again at hourly intervals, the plan is they will get to know each other a little more each time, until they gradually realise that the bunny opposite them is not a threat- but a friend.
Remember, two rabbits mean double the mess, double the food, double the space and double the vetinery bills.
Rabbits and Guinea Pigs
Rabbits and Guinea pigs can become friends, and share time together in a run space. Do not however house a Rabbit and a Guinea pig together, as the presence of a rabbit may cause a guinea pig stress and shock. In many cases a rabbit will try and mate with a guinea pig, which in excess can result in the death of a guinea pig.
Handling
Rabbits as a rule don’t enjoy being picked up, they like being on the ground. It is always best to come down to their level. Many will kick, scratch and bite if picked up. Rabbits can wriggle so much if they don’t like being picked up that they can damage their spine.
When you do need to pick your rabbit up do not pick them up by the ears- it hurts them! Begin by stroking its head, and then approach your rabbit from the front. Be firm but gentle; use both hands- one hand around the scruff of its neck, the other to take its weight with your hand supporting its bottom. Keep it close to your chest, with its head towards your shoulder. Put the rabbit down if he struggles as a kick can hurt you; put the rabbit down gently hind legs first.
Food and Water
In the wild rabbits eat grass, weeds, leaves, twigs, fruit and vegetables. What you feed your rabbit can determine the health and happiness of your rabbit. A poor diet can lead to health problems.
Hay/grass is also a stable part of your Rabbits diet, Hay is vital to a rabbit as it fulfils their basic nutritional requirements. Chewing hay strengthens teeth and jaws, and time chewing away help prevents boredom. Hay makes up 75% of a rabbits daily diet and essential as the fibre content helps maintain a healthy gut function, and should be available at all times. A Hay Rack kept clear of the floor is advisable.
Provide your rabbit with fresh fruit, vegetables or greens daily, and a small amount of pellet/grain rabbit food Rabbits need feeding twice a day, every day (in the morning and in the evening). A good quality, heavy, earthenware food bowl is essential to keep the food dry and clean, and prevent the rabbit from tipping the food on to the floor of the hutch. Their bowls must be cleaned after every use.
When changing your rabbit’s diet you should introduce the new food gradually. Mix about one quarter of the new food with three quarters of the old food on the first day and then gradually increase the new food and decrease the old food over a 10-12 day period. This will help ensure your rabbit does not get a stomach upset.
Before letting your rabbit run around your garden, ensure there are no dangerous or poisonous plants it could nibble on. Also only feed your rabbit grass, weeds, and leaves you know to be safe. If in doubt, leave it out.Rabbits will drink from a water bowl or bottle. Rabbits drink about a quarter of a pint of water a day, more in hot weather, so make sure you check and change the water daily. The best way to provide fresh drinking water is to use a gravity-fed water bottle, attached to the front of the hutch. Use one of the large ballpoint bottles to prevent dripping and ensure a constant supply is available. Bottles should be cleaned with a bottlebrush regularly to prevent the build up of algae, which is harmful to your pet's digestive system. Bottles and tops can be sterilized in baby bottle sterilizing solution every so often for extra cleanliness. While bowls can be used, the water is more likely to be contaminated, therefore bottles are preferred.
Mental Stimulation
Rabbits are inquisitive pets and need to be kept occupied and receive mental stimulation. Without this stimulation your rabbit may become depressed, destructive and generally bored. Toys and activities added to your cage, hutch or run help entertain your rabbit and prevent these symptoms. Toys and objects of interest also encourage your rabbit to exercise and gnaw.
Toys and items of interest Pigs
Terracotta flower pots
Cardboard tubes
Wicker baskets
Plastic bunny toys
Hide treats to encourage foraging
Shoe boxes stuffed with hay
bunny warrens
The list is endless; as long as it is not harmful to your rabbit, give it a go.
Grooming
Rabbits shed every three months; they can shed a little or a lot. It is important to groom your rabbit regularly to remove loose fur and improve its fur and skin condition. Grooming is a good time to give your pet the once over, check the eyes, nose, ears and teeth, and make sure the bottom area is clean. It also helps to build a relationship with your pet.
Combing and Brushing: Rabbits need regular grooming, long coated rabbits will need grooming daily, use a comb or soft brush. Many long haired breeds will need to be taken to a rabbit beauty parlour for some expert grooming and trimming.
Bathing: Rabbits as a rule hate to get wet, and putting your bunny in water may caused stress and shock, which can harm our rabbit. If your rabbit is dirty, you can spot clean the dirty area.
Hairballs: Its not just cats that suffer from hairballs. Rabbits often lick their coat to keep clean and tidy. Unlike cats rabbits can not cough up their hairs balls, if not swallowed they can become a mass of tangled hair blocking the stomach exit. If the hair ball is not treated the rabbit will be unable to eat.
A diet of good hay rich in fibre can help pass hairballs, along with regular grooming to remove loose fur.
Nails and teeth: Nails and teeth should be checked often, if they become too long this can cause pain and discomfort to your pet. Your vet will be able to clip nails and teeth, and if you feel confident they will be able to show you how to do it yourself.
Skin: irritated, red, flakey scratchy skin may be an indication of mites or an allergic reaction to fleas. You will need to treat your rabbit or seek vetinery advice.
Rabbit Health
You will need to check your rabbit over daily to ensure you it is in good health. This will mean checking its coat, eyes, ears, nose and bottom area. They need to be clean and anything out of the ordinary could mean illness.
Symptoms of poor health include:
Sneezing.
Red irritated, scaly patches.
Discharge from the eyes or ears.
Overgrown teeth.
Diarrhoea.
If you rabbit has these symptoms you should seek vetinery advice.
Eyes
Avoid saw dust in your Rabbits hutch, as the tiny bits get into their eyes and cause irritation and inflammation. Ear wax can be removed from your rabbits ears with a cotton wool bud but make sure the bud does NOT enter the ear canal. If there is a severe build up of wax you will need to take your rabbit to the vet.
If your rabbit has watery eyes/discharge you will need to take your bunny to the vet. Try to keep the area around the eye dry and clean so as not to cause an infection.
Diarrhoea
If your rabbit gets the runs, make sure its bottom stays clean. A soiled bottom may attract flies which will lay their eyes in their coat, which may lead to 'Fly Strike' (maggot infestation) this can be fatal to your rabbit. Ensure your rabbit is clean especially in summer.
Neutering
Unless you wish to use your rabbit for breeding, it is advisable to neuter your rabbit. Neutered rabbits are healthier and live longer than un-neutered rabbits. A neutered rabbit will generally be calmer and easier to handle. Most rabbits are also less likely to have destructive tendencies such as biting, chewing and digging as neutering removes the aggressive sexual behavior.
Neutering a female rabbit virtually eliminates the risk of ovarian, uterine, mammarian cancer. An un-neutered female has an 80% chance of developing uterine cancer by the age of 5. Neutered male rabbits will be more docile, and less inclined to fight as the sexual aggressive tendency will be removed. If housing two rabbits together neutering is a must.
Neutering also reduces or halts a rabbit’s tendency to mark its territory, which if keeping your rabbit as a house pet is something to be avoided.
Be aware it is more costly to neuter a female rabbit than a male rabbit.
Vaccinations
Rabbits need to be vaccinated yearly from Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) and Myxomatosis.
Symptoms of VHD vary from loss of appetite to sudden death. The virus is presented in saliva and nasal secretions of rabbits and can be spread by other rabbits and animals, carried on people and birds.
Myxomatosis is a terrible disease spread by fleas and mosquitoes. This is a fatal disease. Symptoms are puffy swelling around the head and eyes, swollen ears, lips and genitals. Vaccination is essential as is flea control. If your pet presents any of these symptoms or you are concerned with your rabbits health, seek a vets advice immediately.
This is a very basic guide to caring for your rabbit, this information is not exhaustive. Please find out as much information as you can regarding rabbit care to ensure that your rabbit gets the most out of you and you out of your rabbit
About Guinea Pigs
Guinea Pigs (Cavia porcellus)
The ancient Incas used to eat them and use them to sacrifice to their Gods, fortunately Guinea Pigs today are mostly kept as pets. Guinea pigs are friendly playful animals, with good temperaments, with their own individual characters making them an appealing choice of pet for children, adults and novice pet owners. They are about 10 inches long, and weigh around 2-3 pounds.
There are many breeds of Guinea Pig, the three breeds you are most likely to come across are the American a short haired breed, the Abyssinian, whose hair grows in fluffy tufts all over its body, and finally the Peruvian Guinea Pig which has long hair that flows all the way to the ground. Do consider, if you choose a long haired Guinea Pig it will need grooming every day or its hair will become matted.
Guinea Pigs are well known for their noises, they sound like they are talking in their own language. This noise can be a faint chatter or a very loud conversation, when they are excited.
Know that male Guinea Pigs are called Boars, female Guinea Pigs are called Sows and baby Guinea pigs are called Piglets.
Buying your Guinea Pig
It is advisable to buy your Guinea pig from a reputable pet shop or breeder. Also consider there are many rescue homes that would love to give a guinea pig a new home. Guinea pigs live to the age of 5 - 8 years, so make sure when buying a Guinea Pig you will still be committed to its care in 8 years time. Many Guinea Pigs end up in re-homing centres as owner priorities change a few years down the line.
Buying from a breeder normally gives you the opportunity to see the mother and check she is in good health, and to see what your pet will grow into. Breeders handle the baby Guinea Pigs and therefore your Guinea Pig will already confident being handled.
Check your Guinea Pig is in good health before purchasing, and check what guarantees you have should your pet become ill shortly after purchase.
Signs of good health include…
A shiny coat, with no scabby or bald patches.
A clean and dry bottom.
Eyes are bright and dry with no crusting or inflammation.
Ears are clean and dry.
The teeth fit snugly over the bottom teeth when its mouth is closed.
Nose should be dry without crusting or discharge. Discharge indicates respiratory disease.
The anal area should be clear of faeces.
A healthy guinea is a lively, and inquisitive.
If you do not believe the Guinea Pig is in good health, look to another source to find your new pet. If you purchase your Guinea Pig from a pet shop, take it to the vet shortly afterwards for a health check.
It is recommended owners buy two Guinea Pigs rather than one, as they are sociable animals used to living in-groups. Keep same sex pairs together, unless the male has been neutered. Females live happily together; if you put males together, choose two from the same litter to avoid fighting.
Once you get your pet home, leave it in the hutch for a few days so it settles in and to become familiar with its surroundings.
Guinea Pigs and Rabbits
Guinea Pigs and Rabbits can become friends, and share supervised time together in a run space. Do not however house a Guinea Pig and Rabbit together, as the presence of a Rabbit can cause a Guinea Pig stress and shock. In many cases a Rabbit will try and mate with a Guinea Pig, which in excess can result in the death of a Guinea Pig. They also have different dietary requirements, Rabbits cannot digest as many vegetables/greens as a Guinea Pig, and Rabbit food does not contain adequate levels of vitamin C and protein.
There are some exceptions to this rule. But it is generally best to keep Guinea pigs with their own kind.
Guinea Pig Home
Have your Guinea Pig Hutch or Guinea Pig Cage ready for your Guinea pig when you arrive home. A general rule is to get a hutch a minimum of four times the length of your pet when fully stretched and grown. If you have more than one Guinea pig you will need an even bigger hutch/cage. Your Guinea Pig is likely to be pretty scared when it arrives in its new pad, it may take time to adjust to new sights and smells. Leave your Guinea Pig in its new home for a few days to settle in before you start to handle it.
Out Doors
If keeping your hutch out doors, keep the hutch out of bright sunlight and away from draughts. When Guinea Pigs get too hot, they are prone to heat stroke. When it’s too cold for your Guinea pig it could easily catch a cold. Have a sloping roof to avoid water logging and rot. Use extra weather proofing if needed.
Guinea Pigs need a separate nest box to sleep and hide in. They love to run and play, therefore a run is recommended. This gives your pet more freedom and a safe place to play in and receive exercise.
Put a few layers of newspaper on the bottom of the hutch or cage to soak up urine, and place some wood shavings 1"-2" deep and a layer of hay on top of that. Avoid fine saw dust as this can irritate your pet’s eyes.
Guinea Pigs hate the cold. If you keep your Guinea Pig out doors, it is worth considering bringing them indoors over the winter months, or moving their hutch into a garage or shed (as long as there are no care fumes). If this is not an option, you can add a snuggle safe heat pad to the guinea pigs sleeping area for extra warmth and protection from the cold.
Indoors
If you are keeping your Guinea Pig indoors which is the most popular choice, you may consider a plastic cage. Do ensure you purchase the largest one you can that meets your pet’s requirements. Keep the cage on a table (not on the ground) as this will help your Guinea Pig feel more secure, and you will won’t appear as a huge overhead threat. You will need to handle and play with your pet more often as they will be in a smaller area than a hutch can provide, but having your pet indoors will mean you are more likely to do so. Having better hearing than humans, guinea pigs dislike excessive noise. It will also dislike cigarette smoke and direct sunlight. Your Guinea pig will be happy to roam the house, but do ensure it is not able to nibble on electrical cables or unsuitable plants.
The home will need to be cleaned at least 2 times a week with disinfectant used once a month to thoroughly clean it.
Handling
Once your Guinea pig has settled in, offer your Guinea pig a tasty treat to get it familiar with your hand and to help build up its confidence.
When you feel your pet is happy with you, its time to pick it up. Face your Guinea pig head on, with one hand under the abdomen and the other to scoop the rear. Keep them close to your chest with their flat feet against you. It is advisable to be sat down while handling your pet, this way if it does fall it has not got far to land. Be firm but gentle. Start talking to your Guinea pig and you will soon find it "chatting" back to you.
Guinea Pig Toys
Guinea Pigs enjoy a few toys and items of interest added to their hutch, cage or run to help them exercise and prevent boredom. They also like hides to sneak into. Try adding plastic or terracotta pipes to run through and hide in. Card board boxes are welcomed, especially shoe boxes with a hole cut into it for them.
Feeding
Guinea pigs are herbivores and should be fed a basic guinea pig mix or pellets, fresh fruit, vegetables and wild plants. Fruit and Vegetables are a good source of vitamin C. Guinea pigs lack the enzyme that makes vitamin C, so they must intake vitamin C daily in order to remain healthy. Don't feed guinea pigs rabbit food - it contains no Vitamin C and has inadequate levels of protein for a guinea pig. Put your Guinea Pigs food in a sturdy, non tip feeding bowl to ensure the food does not get thrown over and soiled.
Guinea pigs graze for up to six hours a day, so they will need access to fresh grass which a run can provide, and fresh hay in their cage or hutch. Hay should make up 80% of your Guinea Pigs daily food intake, and is vital to your pet’s digestion, offering essential roughage, ensure the hay is fresh and not dusty. Provide a hay rack to keep hay clean and free from soiling. Guinea pigs need feeding daily.
A guinea pig needs fresh water everyday; this is best provided by using a water bottle attached the side of the hutch or cage attached at a height the guinea pig can comfortably reach. Bottles should be cleaned with a bottlebrush regularly to prevent the build up of algae, which is harmful to your pet’s digestive system. Bottles and tops can be sterilized in baby bottle sterilizing solution every so often for extra cleanliness.
Do not over feed your Guinea Pig, if there is too much food to hand your pet will eat, eat, eat! A guinea pig will eat out of boredom also. Fruit should be given more sparingly than greens/vegetables as they have a high natural sugar content which can lead to obesity.
It is vital to your Guinea pigs health and well being that you are aware of what you can and cannot feed them. If there is any doubt, leave it out.
Suitable for Guinea Pigs
Broccoli, beetroot, apple, cucumber, carrots and their tops, parsnips, swede, turnips, banana (including skin), celery , cucumber, clover, parsley, peas, spinach, watercress, apples and pears (remove the pips), melons, agrimony, chickweed, clover, coltsfoot, comfrey, dandelion (small amounts only as it is a natural laxative), mallow, meadowsweet, plantains, shepherds purse, spinach, yarrow and lettuce ( but only in small amounts as it is a natural diuretic).
Plants should not be picked near a roads edge (for fear of lead poisoning), in fields that may have been treated with chemicals, or from parks or lawns where dogs may have gone to the toilet, as this can transmit disease to your Guinea Pig.
Un Safe for Guinea Pigs
Exclude any plants that are grown from a bulb, raw beans and potato peelings are poisonous. All evergreen trees and shrubs, bracken, bryony, buttercup, charlock, deadly nightshade, foxglove, hellebore, hemlock, henbane, horsetails, ivy, laburnum, lily of the valley, mayweed, milkweed, monkshood, plum, poppies, privet, ragwort, rhododendron, rhubarb, snowberry, spurges, toadflax, traveler’s joy, yew and most docks. Certain docks can be given to Guinea pigs, but it can be difficult to tell them apart, so it is best to avoid them altogether.
Teeth
A guinea pig's teeth are not like human teeth, they are more like nails which is why it does not hurt when they are trimmed. Their teeth are constantly growing, to keep them short and manageable they require hard food, gnawing blocks or branches for gnawing (a branch off a pear or apple tree is a good choice). A common problem in guinea pigs is overgrown incisors. A sign of healthy teeth is when the lower and upper teeth just touch, overgrown teeth will not touch. In severe cases the animal will need to be taken to the vet for dental treatment.
Eyes
As with most animals, the eyes are a delicate part of the body. If your Guinea Pig develops scabs/crusting or swelling around the eye you should take your pet to the Vet as soon as possible, as this could indicate an infection. Do not try to remove the scabs or crusting yourself, as you could inadvertently harm your pet, leave this to the Vet to address.
If you see white milky fluid coming out of your Guinea Pigs eye, don’t freak out. Guinea Pigs sometimes produce this when they are grooming, especially if they have just had a bath. This milky fluid will soon be re absorbed back into the eye.
Make sure there is nothing your Guinea Pig can poke itself in the eye with. Use soft bedding not coarse straw.
Nails
A Guinea Pigs claws are constantly growing, just like their teeth. These claws need to be kept trimmed; you can trim this yourself or have a vet do it for you. If you chose to cut your Guinea Pigs claws, have a vet show you how to do it first. Do not use regular scissors, instead use small animal clippers, and be careful not to cut to close to the quick (the blood supply).
Grooming & Bathing
Brush your Guinea Pig regularly with a soft bristle brush , long haired breeds will require daily grooming to prevent their hair from becoming matted, you will also need to trim your long haired Guinea Pigs coat from time to time to prevent it from dragging across the ground in the dirt and droppings. Brushing helps keep your pets coat in tip top condition, and gives you the chance to check your Guinea Pig over for any signs of poor health.
Guinea Pigs will do their part to keep themselves clean, but will require a bath every few months. Use a small animal shampoo , as human shampoos contain chemicals that can be harmful for your pet. Put your Guinea Pig in your bath or washing up bowl. Use warm water (not hold, or cold), make sure you do not get your pets head wet, or get any soapy water in the eyes. Do not totally immerse the Guinea Pigs body, instead have a few inches of water in their bath, and use a jug/cup to pour the water over your Guinea Pig. Dry your Guinea Pig with a towel, or if it does not disturb them a hair dryer on the lowest setting. Be careful if using a hairdryer that you do not burn their skin; keep it at a safe distance. Ensure your Guinea Pig is completely dry before returning them to their hutch or cage.
Health
To help prevent your Guinea Pig from becoming sick, ensure your Guinea Pig is in a clean environment. Use dust extracted bedding to prevent eye irritations.
If your pet scratches too much, it may be suffering from skin problems and this can be caused by mites or lice. You will need to consult your vet who will provide suitable treatment for these.
If bald patches develop on the Guinea pigs face or body, it could indicate that your pet has the fungal disease ringworm. If so, consult vetinary advice straight away.
Long-haired guinea pigs in particular may suffer from the potentially fatal disease Fly Strike, caused by flies laying eggs in soiled fur. To help prevent Fly Strike, ensure your pet is in a clean environment, with bedding being changed regularly. Long haired guinea pigs need grooming daily; short haired Guinea pigs do need grooming less frequently. Make sure their fur is free from dirt, especially under the tail.
Guinea pigs can suffer from a vitamin C deficiency, which causes scurvy, weight loss, general weakness and swollen joints. Provide your pet with a vitamin C enriched diet to help prevent this.
This is a very basic guide to caring for your guinea pig, this information is not exhaustive. Please find out as much information as you can regarding guinea pig care to ensure that your guinea pig gets the most out of you and you out of your guinea pig. Always seek vetinary advice if you are concerned with your pet’s health.
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