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Your tortoise or terrapin deserves the best care possible so make sure you are also prepared to:
check that the person who looks after your pet when you go on holiday knows all about the care needed, including maintaining suitable lighting and heating
accept that tortoises can live for more than 50 years, and terrapins for 30 years
find out what size your tortoise or terrapin will grow to - for instance, the African spurred or sulcata tortoise is a giant that can reach 80 centimetres!
Note:
Don't oil or scratch your tortoise's shell as this can block the pores, attract dirt and increase the risk of infection. Also, watch out for shell deformities and other health problems, which can be caused by an unbalanced diet or insufficient UV lighting.
Your lizard deserves the best care possible so make sure you are also prepared to:
find out when your lizard is naturally active - some prefer to be active at night, others during the day - and make sure the location of your lizard's home, the lighting levels and the time of day he/she is handled does not cause disturbance or harm
check that the person who looks after your lizard when you go on holiday knows all about the care needed, including maintaing suitable lighting and heating
take care choosing a floor covering that allows natural behaviour, like burrowing - so, if your lizard eats it, no harm is caused.
Note:
Watch out for bone deformities that can be caused by an unbalanced diet or insufficient UV lighting.
BEARDED DRAGON:
Care of the Bearded Dragon
(Pogona vitticeps)
Bearded Dragons are Agamid lizards native to Australia and New Guinea. Three are seven species of which the Central Bearded Dragon (Pogona Vitticeps) and Common Bearded Dragon (Pogona Barbata) are the most common pets.
In the wild, they live in rocky, semi desert or in dry, open woodland. They are very adept climbers and are often seen basking on fence posts or Rocks.
The "Beard" is this lizards ability to expand its flared-out its throat, when threatened, to scare predators.
They are social animals and do well when housed with similar sized cage mates.
HOUSING
-Bearded dragons can be housed singly, in breeding pairs, or in groups with one male and two or more females.
-Provide a terrarium size of at least 72 inches long by 16 inches wide by 17 inches high for a single adult dragon.
A minimum of eight square feet is needed for up to three adults with another four square feet for each additional dragon.
-A minimum of 10- 20 gallon aquarium is necessary for juveniles.
-It is recommended that juveniles be housed singly, but small groups of similar sized juveniles can be placed together if ample food is provided and if the smaller ones are separated out if they are not thriving.
-Newspaper or paper pulp material is recommended as a substrate as it is easily cleaned and will not cause gastrointestinal problems if eaten.
-Play sand (no finer than #30) or decomposed granite can also be used but, be aware that sand ingestion may cause problems and sand is difficult to keep clean.
-Provide branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks for climbing.
-If several dragons are housed together provide ample basking sites and hide areas.
-Provide a temperature range of 80-85°F (27-29°C) with a basking area of 90-95°F (32-35°C).
-Night temperatures should be approximately 60 -70°F (16 - 21°C). A night heat source such as a heat strip, ceramic heating element or red bulb may be helpful.
-Provide 12-14 hours of full spectrum light including ultraviolet B (UVB) in the summer and 10-12 hours in the winter. UVB is important for absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal system.
-Change the UVB bulbs every six months as the UVB production diminishes with time even if the bulb is still producing light.
FEEDING ADULTS-
Adults are primarily herbivores (plant eaters) and should be fed a variety of dark green leafy vegetables such as romaine, red/green leaf or Boston lettuce, collard greens, kale, endive, spinach, parsley, bok choy, and broccoli (leaves and florets).
-Limited amounts of other vegetables such as carrots, squash, peas and beans can be offered.
-Chop or shred the greens and place them in a bowl or on a plate and spray with water prior to feeding.
-A calcium supplement can be dusted on top of the salad. -Offer gut-loaded insects two to three times per week.
-To properly gut-load, provide insects with a complete diet such as rodent chow, dry dog food or psittacine pellets
-Dust insects with a calcium/Vitamin D3 supplement twice weekly and every other week with a multivitamin.
-Crickets should be the primary insect-fed, but mealworms, giant mealworms and wax moth larvae can also be fed in smaller amounts.
-Pinkie or fuzzy mice can be offered, occasionally. -Commercial bearded dragon diets (moistened with water) can be offered, but should not make up more than 50% of the diet. If they are readily eaten it is important to reduce other vitamin and mineral supplementation.
FEEDING JUVENILES
Juveniles are omnivorous (eating approximately 50% plant and 50% animal material). A variety of leafy green vegetables as described for adults and appropriately sized crickets (no longer than the width of the dragons head) should be offered twice per day.
-Dust crickets with a calcium/vitamin D3 supplement four to five times a week and a multivitamin once a week.
-Placing the crickets/insects in a deep bowl or dish will provide a feeding station for young dragons to easily locate and catch the food items.
-Placing too many insects in the enclosure at once can make it difficult to know if the young dragons are eating and can be stressful if the insects crawl all over them.
-Up to 50% of the diet can be moistened, juvenile commercial bearded dragon food but it is important to reduce other vitamin and mineral supplementation if it is being readily eaten.
WATER
-Provide clean fresh water in dishes or bowls that the dragons can easily climb into. For juveniles, offer water in smaller containers that they can sit in or run through.
-Dragons can be encouraged to drink by dripping water on their heads with a water bottle.
-The environment (but not the dragons themselves} can be misted to encourage them to drink the water droplets.
-Soaking dragons occasionally in a warm water bath may also encourage drinking.
REPRODUCTION-
Use only bearded dragons in good health and body condition for breeding.
-A pre-breeding cooling down period is recommended from early December to mid-February. Reduce the light cycle to 10 hours and provide 14 hours of darkness. Reduce heat to an environmental temperature of 24-29°C (75-85°F) during the day with a nighttime temperature of approximately 16°C (60°F).
-Dragons will often be inactive, not eat and stay hidden during this cooling period.
-Fresh water should be provided daily. The dragons can also be soaked weekly in lukewarm water to help keep them hydrated.
-At the end of the cooling period return to 14 hours of daylight and 10 hours of darkness with a normal heat range.
-Feeding will resume and breeding will begin within several weeks.
-Females will "wave' their arms and males will become more aggressive, bobbing their heads and chasing the females.
-Watch the females for excessive trauma to the skin as the males will bite and carry the females around by the skin of the head and neck.
-Eggs will be laid two to three weeks after breeding, and females will become restless and begin to dig in the enclosure.
-Freshly dug garden soil, damp sand, a sand/peat mixture or moist mulch can all be used but should be placed in a container at a depth of 12 inches or more to provide an adequate nesting site within the enclosure.
-'Starter" burrows can be dug out in the nest chamber to entice the females to burrow and lay eggs.
-Eggs can be incubated in moistened coarse vermiculite (ratio of five parts vermiculite to four parts water by weight) in a sealed container, poked with small holes, to allow a small amount of air exchange.
-The eggs should be placed in the moist vermiculite (approximately two thirds buried) in the same position as they are laid and maintained in that position throughout the entire incubation period. The vermiculite (not the eggs themselves) can be misted with water once weekly if it appears to be dry.
-At a constant temperature of 29°C (84°F) the eggs will hatch in 50 -75 days.
-Hatchlings can be left in the incubator for the first day or two after they leave the egg.
-Hatchlings can then be placed in a separate sweater box, poked with air holes and lined with moist paper towels, and kept in the incubator for a day or so.
-Feed and house them as outlined above for juveniles.
COMMON MEDICAL PROBLEMS
Gastrointestinal parasites (coccidia, pinworms and flagellates) are extremely common in bearded dragons. A faecal examination should be performed on all dragons and if necessary appropriate anti-parasitic treatment should be prescribed by a vet.
A vet skilled in reptile medicine and surgery should be consulted if any of the following conditions are noted in bearded dragons:
Weight loss
Not eating or drinking (generally appetite will be suppressed during the pre-breeding cooling period).
Abnormal stools
Twitching, tremors or seizures
Swelling of the limbs, inability to close mouth properly
Discharge from the eyes and/or the mouth
Difficulty breathing
Distension of the abdomen (except in females that have been bred and are doing well otherwise).
Masses or lumps on the body or limbs, wounds, cuts or scrapes.
BLUE TONGUED SKINK:
Points to consider before you choose your pet:
research the species of animal you plan to keep.
each species will have special needs
take care to avoid acquiring a wild-caught animal
prepare a stable home
find out about the humidity, temperature and light levels needed for the reptile being kept and, therefore, the most suitable type of equipment
make sure you have the appropriate food and know where to obtain further supplies
find a vet with experience of treating the species of animal you plan to keep.
Points to consider after you acquire your pet:
maintain a stable home for your pet
use thermometers and thermostats to monitor and maintain a stable temperature range
hydrometers can also be used to monitor and maintain stable humidity levels
maintain good hygiene using appropriate products and ventilation, whilst minimising the disturbance of the animal
LEOPARD GECKOS:
General Information:
Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) or leo for slang originated from the Middle East - Afghanistan, India, and Pakistan area. Adults can obtain lengths of 8-12 inches long and 60-100+ grams (g) in weight in captivity. Babies are around 3 inches and average 3g in weight. Leos are a terrestrial animal which means they are ground dwellers that stay on the ground. Being nocturnal they are most active at night. They are one of the most popular and easiest geckos to keep in captivity. This care sheet will give you the info you need to keep your gecko happy and healthy. And with proper care a leo can easily live up to 20 years.
Housing:
Leopards are very easy to house. A pair (1 male and 1 female) can live comfortably in a 20 gallon long glass aquarium. Most breeders use some kind of a rack system. Racks are easier because they fit more geckos in a given area than with an aquarium. But with an aquarium you can view them better and make a realistic vivarium. I house my leos in 28 quart Rubbermaid containers.
Substrate
- The best substrate to use is paper, newspaper, paper towel, or slate. I suggest not using sand at all as the gecko may become impacted. My animals are all kept on paper just for the impaction reason. If you’re looking for a more naturalistic look go with slate. Don’t ever use aquarium gravel, walnut shells or calcium sand. These substrates can be fatal if caught in the leos digestive system.
Hides – In order for the gecko to feel secure in its enclosure provide several hiding places. These can be as simple as inverted plant saucer pans, plants, wood etc. It’s a good idea to put a hide on both the warm end and cool end (discussed in heat section below) of the cage. This will allow them to hide and feel comfortable on both ends of the cage. Along with a “dark” hide they need a humid hide. The most popular is using a throw away container such as a glad or Tupperware container. Cut a hole in the lid and fill it with moist peat moss, sphagnum moss, forest bed (Coconut fiber), or paper towel. This will provide enough humidity to allow the gecko to shed properly.
Heat & Light –Provide a hot spot of 88°-90°F with the opposite side of the cage in the mid 70’s. It is very important to provide a temperature gradient for the animal. This is basically having a warm end and a cool end that will allow the animal to regulate its own body temps. There are several different ways to provide proper heat. One is using under tank heating. This is a strip of heat tape that runs under the cage. This is probably the best heat as it’s direct heat. Another way is to provide a heat lamp with a 40 or 60w light bulb. This will give off heat and light. Because leos are nocturnal there is no need for special UVB lighting.
Handling – When holding any animal it’s best to take it slow. When you first acquire a new animal it is best not to hold them for a few weeks. This will allow them to adjust to the new environment and get used to everything. After a few weeks, gently hold the gecko letting it walk across your hand inside the cage. Once the gecko is familiar with you, you can take it out and hold it. Remember that too much holding or too rough of holding can cause stress on the animal. Another thing to remember is to never grab the tail! If threatened, the tail will break off. It will grow back but will look nothing like the original.
Food & Water:
Leos are insectivores and the most common items used are crickets, mealworms, superworms, silkworms, and small cockroaches as a staple diet. The occasional pinky mouse and waxworm can be given as a treat. I don’t recommend feeding a lot of waxworms. They are very fattening and addicting to the animal. Only feed as much as the leo will consume within 24 hours. Left over prey running in the cage can cause stress but the gecko might get nibbled on by hungry insects. If you’re feeding mealworms, superworms, etc. that can be contained in a dish they can be left with the animal 24/7 without harm. The pray item should be no larger than half the width of the geckos head.
Supplementation - Offer calcium dusted prey 1-2 times per week, once a week dust with a vitamin/mineral supplement such as vionate, RepCal Herptivite or Minerall Indoor/Outdoor. I use osteo-form as my supplementation of choice. I also provide a dish of calcium for the gecko 24/7. If they want more calcium the animal can lick what they need or want. Supplementation is very important because MBD (Metabolic disease) can cause serious problems with reptiles.
Gutloading - Make sure to gutload the food item prior to feeding. Gutloading is feeding very nutritious foods to prey prior to feeding. This will make a healthier insect and in the long run a healthier gecko. Remember your geckos are what they eat.
Water – Offer a dish of fresh water at all times. Keeping the water fresh is very important.
Maintenance:
Cleaning is important and needs to be done on a regular basis. If you’re using paper or paper towel change it every week or sooner if needed. I also recommend disinfecting everything with a chlorhexidine solution. It will safely sanitize everything.
Breeding:
Leos are one of the easiest geckos to breed. However before you attempt breeding keep in mind the amount of time, space and recourses it will take to maintain the breeders and babies. With that being said you’re breeders will need to be ready. I recommend males a minimum of 8 months old and 45g and females being a minimum of 1 year and 50g. Although those are the minimums I prefer my females to be no less than 60g as it will be easier on them.
Sexing – Before you can start breeding you’ll need a sexually matured pair. There are only a few ways to sex leopard geckos. The easiest way is to look at the under side of the gecko. The male will have two pronounced hemipenal bulges behind the vent on the tail side. You can also look for pre-anal pores that will be in a "V" shape just above the vent. Females will not have the hemipenal bulges but may have pre-anal pits rather than enlarged pores. If a female is really fat she may appear to have bulges but it’s just fat. Another way to tell is to just look at them. Males are more heavy bodied, have thicker necks and their heads are broader than a females. Here are pictures to help out.
Breeding -
Some breeders give a brief cool down period others don’t. Either way works so it’s just what your preference is. Personally I don’t cool mine. Stop feeding a week prior to a cool down. Gradually lower the temperature until it is 70° to 75° F. Do this for 4 weeks then gradually warm them back up again. Once they are warmed up offer the pair a lot of food so they’ll gain back the weight they lost during the cool down. After a few weeks, put the male with the female. The geckos may mate right away or it might take a little time. Leave the male in with the female overnight and then take him out. Do this about 3 times a week and you should have a successful mating. If you don’t cool them just place the male with the desired females and use the same method as above.
Eggs - Up to 4 weeks after a successful mating the first clutch of eggs will be laid. Each clutch will consist of 1-2 white oval eggs. Leos have been known to easily lay 8 clutches a year with each clutch being laid in 2-3 week intervals.
Incubation - After being laid the eggs need to be placed in an incubator. Leopard gecko eggs are temperature sexed dependent. This mean that you can decide what sex baby you want just byincubating the eggs at a certain temperature. The text below shows the results with the given temps.
For female = 80° F
For mix of both sexes = 85° F
For male = 90° F
The eggs will hatch in 30-105 days. Males generally hatch faster because of the higher temperatures. Females take longer because of the cooler temperatures. On average it’s around 60 days.
Conclusion:
Leopard geckos have become one of the most popular geckos in the world and have won the hearts of thousands of people. They are so popular because they are very easy to keep and breed. Breeders have produced a variety of different colors and patterns ranging from tangerine, snow, stripe, carrot-tail, and albino just to name a few. With their huge success in captivity leos are continuing to gain popularity and will keep winning the hearts of keepers.
AN INTRODUCTION TO SNAKES:
Your snake deserves the best care possible so make sure you are also prepared to:
learn more about what you're taking on - snakes can vary greatly in size, from less than one metre for some king snakes, to up to 10 metres for a reticulated python
take care choosing a floor covering that allows natural behaviour, like burrowing - so, if your snake eats it, no harm is caused
only keep venomous snakes if you have a secure enclosure, experience and a Dangerous Wild Animals Act licence from your local authority.
Note:
Most snakes are only active at night or during low light levels, so make sure the location of your snake's home, the types of lamps and the time of day he/she is handled does not cause disturbance or harm.
ROYAL PYTHON:
ROYAL PYTHON:
Points to consider before you choose your pet:
research the species of animal you plan to keep.
each species will have special needs
take care to avoid acquiring a wild-caught animal
prepare a stable home
find out about the humidity, temperature and light levels needed for the reptile being kept and, therefore, the most suitable type of equipment
make sure you have the appropriate food and know where to obtain further supplies
find a vet with experience of treating the species of animal you plan to keep.
Points to consider after you acquire your pet:
maintain a stable home for your pet
use thermometers and thermostats to monitor and maintain a stable temperature range
hydrometers can also be used to monitor and maintain stable humidity levels
maintain good hygiene using appropriate products and ventilation, whilst minimising the disturbance of the animal.
RAT AND CORN SNAKES:
Points to consider before you choose your pet:
research the species of animal you plan to keep.
each species will have special needs
take care to avoid acquiring a wild-caught animal
prepare a stable home
find out about the humidity, temperature and light levels needed for the reptile being kept and, therefore, the most suitable type of equipment
make sure you have the appropriate food and know where to obtain further supplies
find a vet with experience of treating the species of animal you plan to keep.
Points to consider after you acquire your pet:
maintain a stable home for your pet
use thermometers and thermostats to monitor and maintain a stable temperature range
hydrometers can also be used to monitor and maintain stable humidity levels
maintain good hygiene using appropriate products and ventilation, whilst minimising the disturbance of the animal.
COMMON GARTER SNAKE:
Points to consider before you choose your pet:
research the species of animal you plan to keep.
each species will have special needs
take care to avoid acquiring a wild-caught animal
prepare a stable home
find out about the humidity, temperature and light levels needed for the reptile being kept and, therefore, the most suitable type of equipment
make sure you have the appropriate food and know where to obtain further supplies
find a vet with experience of treating the species of animal you plan to keep.
Points to consider after you acquire your pet:
maintain a stable home for your pet
use thermometers and thermostats to monitor and maintain a stable temperature range
hydrometers can also be used to monitor and maintain stable humidity levels
maintain good hygiene using appropriate products and ventilation, whilst minimising the disturbance of the animal.
STICK INSECTS:
The right pet for you?
Stick insects are relatively easy to keep and can be interesting to look at. Before getting any pet, you should think very hard about whether you can provide everything it needs.
What do stick insects need?
Companionship - to be with other stick insects (but kept apart from other insect types).
A diet of fresh leaves. Most types of stick insect will live on bramble, but the Indian stick insect also eats privet, hawthorn and rose. These leaves should be kept on the twig and stood in a pot of water, with a cover to prevent the insects drowning. Avoid any leaves that may have been sprayed with pesticide. Spray the leaves with water daily and change them once a week.
The floor of their home to be lined with paper, which should be changed once a week. Be careful to keep an eye on the stick insects while cleaning out the home, so that they are not thrown out with old plants.
A large, well-ventilated home, that is kept indoors in a warm place out of direct sunlight. They should have plenty of room to climb out of their skins.
To be allowed out to fly occasionally if they have wings.
To be left alone just before they shed their skins and for a few days afterwards.
To be looked after when you are away on holiday.
Life span
Stick insects live for about 12 months.
Behaviour
Stick insects should be kept with other stick insects but must not be overcrowded. They may fight and even eat each other if they are not given enough water, are fed incorrectly or do not have sufficient space.
Handling
Stick insects are very delicate and should be handled with great care. It is best to pick them up with an artist's paintbrush.
Breeding
The RSPCA strongly advises that you do not breed from stick insects as it is very difficult to find good homes for the young.
In some species of stick insect, females produce fertile eggs without mating. This is known as parthenogenesis. Stick insects will lay between 100 and 700 eggs in a clutch, depending on the species. Eggs should be collected and carefully destroyed.
Health
If a stick insect loses a leg, this is not fatal as it will grow another one after its next skin change.
A stick insect that is twitching has probably eaten leaves that have been treated with pesticide and it is likely to die.
If a stick insect has problems shedding its skin, you can help. When the stick insect looks fat, gently moisten the old skin and carefully peel it away.
Stick insects may suffer from mites if their home is not kept clean and well-ventilated.
If you have any concerns about the health of your stick insects, ask your veterinary surgeon or an expert for advice.
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